If you’ve ever dashed into a club toilet to shimmy out of your clothes and into your leather, you’ll understand exactly why COPPWEAR exists. Created by fashion designer Jonathan Copp, the brand takes fetish signals, queer heritage and everyday comfort, and wraps them into one seriously sexy hoodie. Jonathan has spent years behind the scenes in fashion, designing and pattern-cutting for big names. COPPWEAR is his move into something entirely his own, built with intention, craft and a very queer wink. Heavyweight fabrics, bold coded stripes, meticulous detailing and a design philosophy rooted deeply in our community, all stitched together with proper fashion pedigree.

We sat down with Jonathan to talk about where the idea came from, what makes COPPWEAR different, and where he hopes to take it next.

What inspired you to launch COPPWEAR and start your own brand after working in fashion for so long?

Having worked in the fashion industry and designed and pattern cut for other companies, I felt it was time to put myself out there and have something that was mine completely, not just part of a whole.

I was going to sex and fetish clubs, and almost everyone wearing their leather/rubber or fetish gear was changing into their gear on arrival. So, I felt that if there was a garment that I could wear over my leather/rubber gear, then it would save the whole changing kafuffle. Then if that too could be colour coded to fit with the fetish hanky codes then this would also give off a signal to other guys.

I also saw this as a way to bring the hanky codes and fetish into a more casual garment, as the hoodie can be worn across all aspects of life, not just going out to a club. It can be worn with jeans to the pub, as workout gear at the gym, and we know a lot of gay men cruise at the gym and the code adds a signal to men you might meet.

When starting this up, friends and colleagues asked why I didn’t just buy ‘white label’ goods and sew my brand’s tape into the back and then print the logo on the front. That was never my intention. If I had used white label garments, I would never have got the fit and design I wanted, and the details of trims would not have been the same. With my background in fashion and knowledge of manufacturing, I knew I could get the product specifications, design, detail and cloth I personally chose to fit my vision.

The Hoodie needed to be heavy and sturdy enough to be worn alongside leather and rubber and still feel part of the image. This is why we have used a very heavy loop jersey ( for those in the know – 460gms). The fit is relaxed, meaning it is a comfortable fit with room for clothes, or nothing, underneath. The Length was also a considered decision. If you had a baggy oversized hoodie, it would then be too long and cover your arse, which we know gay men love to show off. So the length was purposely made to sit at the waist so that your arse in your tight shorts, leather jeans, combats or chaps was clear and visible to everyone to admire.

The coloured Webbing tape that runs down the length of the hood and back is a clear intent to those who know, not giving away the role of active or passive, which in turn then strikes up a cruising conversation. Again, the Webbing tape needed to be really robust to weather the play and heavy-duty that it may come across. The tape is integrated into the garment, sewn into the hems and ribbing. This is something that would not have been possible using pre-manufactured white label goods. It is also symbolism of how strong we are as a community, as the fibres that make up webbing are all individual, on there own could be broken, weave lots of them together to make 1 very strong tape that is so hard to break.

How would you describe COPPWEAR to someone discovering it for the first time?

Coppwear is where fetish meets function. It’s a premium brand built for those where coded signals, queer heritage, and everyday comfort meet. It is relaxed, robust, and unapologetically charged. Every piece is designed to feel good on the body and say something without saying a word, whether you’re at a club, in the gym, on the street, or just unwinding. It’s not just clothing. It’s a Statement, a Signal, a Code.

Your pieces feel stylish but also connected to queer and fetish culture. How do you find that balance?

I wanted something that gave that A Statement, A signal, and A Code.

In our pre-launch research, I discovered that guys wanted something else to wear that could be worn anytime, was comfortable and relaxing, that they could just pick it up, wear and go and want to keep wearing. I also found that a lot of guys wanted to subtly shout out about what they were into.

I wanted to design and make products that were both Complementary to the fetish gear and also could be worn anytime. The Colour stripes (on the hoodie) and the Dot (in the logo) are the signal to other gay men who know the code.

Attention to detail is a priority of mine when it comes to fashion and style. All the trims, from the hoodie drawstring, the internal zip tape, and the back neck tape, are all colour-coordinated to the colour of the Stripe and Dot in the logo. So, if you have a red stripe, all the trims are red; if the stripe is blue, all the trims are blue, etc.

Having this level of detail also is a test to the quality and craftsmanship, as this only adds more steps in the manufacturing process.

I also saw this as a way to bring back the hanky codes in a new way. Many guys don’t really know about them, what they are and why we have them. In some ways, it is good that we have moved on, that we don’t need to have a ‘secret code’. However, it becomes part of the cruising or even the foreplay if you see a guy in the colour that you are into.

What do you hope people feel when they wear COPPWEAR?

I hope people will feel amazing, relaxed, sexy and stand out with a purpose, not a screaming billboard, when wearing Coppwear.

I want them to feel the purchase was well worth it, they can see and feel the quality, and weight of the material. Appreciate the design detail that has gone into each product and that the fit is perfect.

I want them to feel they can just pick up the garments and wear them anytime, and just feel so comfortable they could wear them all the time.

What has surprised you most since launching — either a challenge or a big win?

What has surprised me is that people get the meaning behind the brand. They have taken time to read the ‘about’ page and got behind the brand.

People have said they don’t always feel comfortable to be out and about, walking in public, getting on the tube all in their leather/rubber gear. Wearing the hoodie over the top just makes everything more relaxing and comfortable.

The challenge has been trying to get our voice and name out there in a market that is full of fetish brands. I am not trying to compete with them; I want to stand side by side, offering products that are there to complement and be worn with their other fetish gear. Hopefully, people can see we offer something different to the other brands, which can be both fashionable and stylish, yet also fit the fetish world.

Where do you hope to take the brand next? Are there new items or ideas on the way?

I would love the take the brand to a level that people know what it means as well as how comfortable it feels to wear and becomes their go to garment to wear out.

I hope to expand the brand by using more of the colours of the Hanky Code. To start with, I wanted to use the 4 colours that most people wear: Red, Blue, Yellow and White. I have plans to bring in others like Black, Orange, Pink and get feedback from clients as to which colours they want next in their wardrobe.

The Berlin Hoodie is premium heavyweight and can be very hot to wear in the summer months or hotter climates, so I aim to produce a lighter-weight premium Hoodie that can be worn in the hotter climates, like Palm Springs, Gran Canaria, South of Spain, etc.

I will hopefully do some more limited-edition T-shirts around specific events.

I am also looking at possible smaller accessories that would also work with the Hanky Colour Codes.

Finally, how can people best support you and get involved in the COPPWEAR journey?

Obviously, it would be lovely if people could support the brand by buying our products with Pride, knowing that they are part of a great community.

Feeling comfortable to wear our products anywhere and hopefully take pictures of themselves in them, walking down the street, at the gym, at the pub, or even during play and posting and tagging us @coppwear in their posts.

Giving constructive feedback is very important too to help support our ongoing growth and letting us know what colours and other products they would like to see from us.

Ready to explore COPPWEAR?

Jonathan’s mission is simple, bold and beautifully queer: create garments that feel incredible, look intentional and carry a coded wink for those who know. His craftsmanship shows in every stitch, and his love for the community is woven right through the brand.

If you want to check out the Berlin Hoodie and the full collection, head to coppwearshop.com and give them a follow at @coppwear.

Fetish, fashion and function, all in one very tasty package.